If Route 12 East from Lewiston, ID to Lolo, MT is not listed as one of the great scenic drives in the Northwest, it should be. Like Ginger to Fred, the road follows the Lochsa River's lead through almost 200 of miles of turns and dips through pine forests that come down to the waters' edge.  Like any good dance partner, it detaches sometimes, to curve and climb a hill, but always returns to flow in unison with the river. Having it to myself -- there was no other traffic east-bound for over an hour, partly because I outsped the few -- was the perfect antidote to the day on the Snake going to the massacre site. The contrast between the two landscapes couldn't have been more striking. Whereas the vegetation along the Snake was sparse and ground-hugging in a palette of browns, the Lochsa ran a gauntlet of deep greens and towering pines covering every hill along it. It exuded strength, vitality, and life-force that was comforting.